What I Learned from the Vogue Forces of Fashion Digital Summit
Normally hosted in NYC, I’ve never had more than musings about attending Vogue’s annual Forces of Fashion conference. Obviously, Zoom and website live streams have replaced the Big Apple as the venue for this year, making this normally geographically exclusive event attainable for me here in the north, and many more from around the globe. If you didn’t attend, here are my recap and takeaways from the two day event. There is much to unpack so let’s get into it.
Day One
After a brief introduction from Anna Wintour and host/Vogue personal, Chloe Malle, the panels began with models; Paloma Elsesser, Precious Lee, Jill Kortleve, and Tess McMillan. The topic; diversity, specifically size diversity in modelling. This was not your average discussion about promoting different shaped bodies and being body-positivity advocates. These women, having experienced first-hand the boxes the fashion industry can force models into, gave us an incredibly critical analysis of industry terminology, the meanings we attach to certain language, and the power in diversity. Precious Lee explained how since childhood she’s described herself as “chunky”, and she derives power from that because she’s taken ownership of the language she uses to describe her own body. McMillan shared her initial fear, when she entered the industry, of only being able to book work for fast fashion brands, and “becoming a body that sells clothes” rather than having the freedom to work in a multitude of creative and collaborative ways. The stunning Paloma Elsesser spoke about the topic of language around one’s own body and how industries are designed to make us feel invaluable. When we choose to see our bodies simply as our bodies, and not under a label with pre-determined negative connotations, we take the power back. McMillan put it brilliantly when she explained that judgements of bodies like her’s, and a lack of diversity, limits creativity in the industry: something I know we’re all realizing this year.
Sarah Burton was up next, interviewed from the Alexander McQueen flagship store in London. Having worked in pre and post-production for multiple McQueen campaigns, and having visited their headquarters last year while I was working in London, this was one of the interviews I was most looking forward to. Sarah Burton toured us through the store, discussing their educational work with school children in the city and the opportunities they feel so strongly about giving young people in the arts. McQueen is an incredibly collaborative house, she explained, while breaking down the construction process of the many rose inspired pieces her, Lee, and others on the McQueen team had assembled not from a pattern but from trial and error. For a house with a tragic history, it will never cease to inspire. It has always and will continue to be one of my all time favourite brands.
Zooming in from their respective apartments, Bella Hadid and Virgil Abloh had a light discussion about their experiences entering the industry, as well as their outlook on social media. Abloh, the CEO & creative director of Off-White and creative director of Louis Vuitton Menswear, said that “we’re all mounting our quiet revolution”, by sharing our beliefs and advocacy on social. I related to this instantly, and took to heart his advice to surround yourself with people who share the same values but who also “sharpen us”, and challenge our thinking. Bella Hadid has the outlook that without kindness fuelling everything you do, there simply isn’t a point. Agreed.
After a quick snack break and an adorable cooking show from Zac Posen, we viewed the premier of episode one of Gucci’s new 7 part mini series: Ouverture of Something That Never Ended. The episode was an explosion of colour, a la Gucci, while showcasing themes of mundane every day life and the fluidity of gender and fashion. Afterwards we heard from Gucci’s Alessandro Michele and the film’s co-director Gus Van Sant. Fashion is cinematic, Michele explained, fashion is very close to what we are as human beings. “Everything is very emotional, and what we wear is very emotional”. Well, I couldn’t agree more. More so than ever I have discovered in 2020 the power of emotions and how they intertwine with the way we present ourselves. It’s an ebb and flow relationship that is very mysterious. Leave it to Alessandro Michele to make me swim in a mind pool of philosophical fashion reflections.
Jonathan Anderson of Loewe and JW Anderson, interviewed by Reggie Yates, was the conversation I didn’t know I needed to witness. Anderson, while talking about his design process, divulged his habit of working so closely with an idea, collection, or specific garment to the point where he will reject it. He’ll become nervous to show something on the runway because by the time it’s ready for public viewing, he’s bored of it. I experience this phenomenon almost every time I write. Is it a curse of creativity? Perhaps. Luxury was another concept they dug into, with Anderson explaining how he’s always had an aversion to the word and it’s exclusive nature. When he took the job at Loewe, he made a commitment that this would not be a luxury brand, but rather a cultural brand. “You cannot sell something today if it is culturally baron”; words for business people and creatives alike, to live by.
While I was dragged into a game of tug-of-war with my 10 week old puppy, Christopher John Rogers, the NY based designer everyone is obsessing over, began a discussion with Sarah Jessica Parker and Vogue’s Hamish Bowles. SJP explained her frustration that NYC, her home and creative hub, has become inhospitable for emerging creatives. It’s a cultural centre, yet too expensive for anyone to live in if they are just starting out. She hopes this will change after this turbulent year, as diversity and raising the voices of the next generation become commonplace. She also discussed, along with Rogers, how a slower paced business model is the future of the industry. It’s an old-fashioned way of doing business, she explains, knowing your clients personally, offering advice over the phone during 2020, and lifting their individual spirits through the power of footwear (and bright, exuberant, colourful footwear at that). Rogers believes the future is also rooted in a small business model. This doesn’t mean you can’t grow, but keeping the values and connectivity of a small business is key. At his namesake label, they do exuberance and flamboyance; “I could get this from anyone — that’s so out the window”. Even in everyday pieces, there is fun in the details, and that’s truly what people need right now to lift themselves up.
Day one was closed by one of my favourite fashion industry personalities, Jeremy Scott, in conversation with Lizzo. She was elated following her October Vogue cover, and had a truly smile-inducing talk with Scott about diversity in fashion, the importance of voting, and using her platform to register voters this US election. They labelled themselves as those who bring the joy, and I can’t help but agree. The laughter between the two of them was infectious. When discussing the Black Lives Matter movement, Lizzo revealed her confusion around some people’s reactions, as if this is a movement that will somehow take power away from those who have previously experienced all the privilege in the world. No, she explains, “this is about not leaving anyone out, this is about opening the door to have someone stand beside you, who doesn’t look like you”. That is certainly something that will bring more opportunities for joy moving forward.
Day Two
We kicked off day two with a zoom call between actor Cynthia Erivo and designer Craig Green. Erivo talked about her exciting new role playing Aretha Franklin in an upcoming series, and how much she misses performing live. Green discussed how he also misses showing collections live, and his outlook that fashion should tell a story with fantasy, while still being relatable. A jacket and shirt, he explains, still has the opportunity for fantasy when we have a more intimate relationship with our clothes.
Two stunning British ladies took the floor next; Sienna Miller and Victoria Beckham. While Miller discussed her WFH attire and quarantine shenanigans with her kids, Beckham dived into her beauty line. There’s so many things to consider when you’re business inherently creates waste. Beckham explained how she’s worked closely on the packaging design for her new products in order to minimize plastic use and maximize the use of post consumer waste recycling.
Next we heard from designer Joseph Altuzarra and car designer Chris Benjamin. The comparison these two were able to analyze between luxury car design and fashion, was very interesting. Historically, the word luxury has been associated with something coming from Europe, Benjamin explains that this is changing. Luxury needs to become more accessible. Altuzarra agreed, before diving into how his mindset has changed this year when designing with sustainability at the forefront. It’s not just a case of re-using materials but thinking of the impact materials make from the second they begin production.
The question I had submitted on day one was answered in the next panel. I can’t remember the exact wording I chose but I essentially wanted to know what areas of the industry need to change, but are often overlooked, or overshadowed by the more flashy “sustainability” efforts. The answer came from Lewis Perkins of the Apparel Impact Institute: re-thinking every step in the supply chain is critical. We need to expose how fashion impacts water pollution, water usage, carbon pollution, dying (which he explained is one of the worst parts of the production process), and many more hidden destructive practices. Dominica Leibowitz discussed the 5 part docu-series she’s working on, interviewing young people in the industry and how they ingrain sustainability into their work and habits. Vogue sustainability editor, Tonne Goodman moderated the conversation also making note that the financial benefits of making sustainable shifts in a business come more quickly than companies may think. There truly are no reasons not to make these crucial changes.
“He’s Back!” was the title of the next segment; an intimate interview with Hamish Bowles and Alber Elbaz, the infamous designer making his return to the fashion industry. After 5 years of teaching fashion design, travelling and planning his next move, Elbaz has returned with a new brand, AZFactory. He enjoyed the humbleness in the word factory, and plans to embrace the world of the start-up. I loved his energy and nonchalant discussion of the business of fashion. He painted a visual of there being only producers and consumers, with everything in-between as simply propaganda. As a marketing student, I feel as though I need to give more thought to this concept. There is great importance in dreaming, and the key to success, he explains, is for creatives and management to work together. The best business people are the ones that think like artists.
Tonne Goodman was back in the next interview, this time with young photographer Ethan James Green. We hadn’t heard from a photographer yet so I was very excited for this discussion, especially since I’d previously worked in production for some of Ethan James Green’s advertising campaigns. They looked closely at his work from teen years to now. I’m particularly a fan of the moving Vogue Italia covers he did this year with Binx Walton and Precious Lee. Diversity came up once again, as Green explained how “we’ve been lied to for years about who can be in a picture”. I’m excited to see the work he continues to do as his career expands. I found it particularly interesting that he stated he believes, at the end of his career his title won’t be “photographer”. He’s not sure what it will be, but mediums are changing so rapidly, who knows what the future holds.
The finale of the summit was, of course, an interview with Naomi. I don’t believe a last name is needed here, you know exactly who I’m talking about. Afua Hirsch, who also wrote the piece for Naomi’s November Vogue cover, talked to the icon about her experience with racism in the industry. When her career took off she, as THE Black super model, she was unfairly expected to tackle the industry’s racism single handed. She has always used her voice to make change. Anna Wintour herself admits that Naomi called, and continues to call her to voice concerns about things she sees in Vogue that don’t align with values of diversity and inclusivity. Naomi explained how she surrounds herself with her chosen family, made up of people who she learns from. “Enablers don’t work for me” she exclaimed. I truly related to her statement that travelling is the best education she’s received, and how “the world doesn’t wait for you”, so we need to take a leap of faith and go outside our comfort zones.
Overall, the two day summit was inspiring and educational. But more than that, it highlighted critical conversations that need to be had not only in the fashion industry, but in all of our individual households. We have the power to make great change in our hands and in our wallets when we buy the clothes on our backs. Let’s put that power to good use, and support the brands who are investing in the future of our planet and the wellbeing of everyone who lives on it.
Thanks for reading.
Emily
